The newly opened La Ville Lumière has brought the Parisian charm of brasseries to Cleveland, and it’s nothing short of unforgettable. With Executive Chef Kevin O’Connell at the helm, this French joint is returning to the roots of what it means to dine out.

“It’s a gathering place for the community. It’s steak frites, it’s onion soup… there are nicer things on our menu that are a little bit more upscale, but at the end of the day, we’re an all-day restaurant that serves the same menu from 11 in the morning till midnight, six days a week,” says Chef O’Connell.

Behind the Toque Blanche

O’Connell is no stranger to the Cleveland food scene, having previously owned the Cleveland Sandwich Co., but this seasoned vet has had European influences tucked under his chef’s coat for years.

“I lived in Europe a little while after college. I fell in love with the romance of what this is; I love the restaurant business. I love that you get to throw the party every night.”

He’s worked in every restaurant position imaginable, from being a dishwasher at the American Sports Bar & Grill in 1996 to his first executive chef position at the Grand Union Hotel in Fort Benton, Montana, in 2000. The Buffalo-born chef has seen success—and hardship—across the United States, with previous restaurants in Los Angeles and Buffalo.

O’Connell has lived many lives, from being a featured chef on Restaurant Impossible to catering Paris Hilton’s Fourth of July parties; he was anything but short of stories about his colorful career. Of course, the glitz and glamour of Hollywood had to end as he slowly inched his way back to the Midwest.

“Rocco Whalen is a very, very good friend of mine, and I would say he is the predominant reason I’m in Cleveland.”

Yes, Cleveland’s beloved chef and owner of hotspots like Fahrenheit and Rosie & Rocco’s, Rocco Whalen, was one of the first people O’Connell called when his time in L.A. was running down. Whalen encouraged O’Connell to come to Cleveland because he had loved it so much when he visited.

From there, his journey with the Cleveland food scene began. If you ever had the chance to taste one of his spectacular sandwiches at Cleveland Sandwich Co., you know the O’Connell touch is no joke. Ever the industry junkie, O’Connell still attributes so much of his success to the talented chefs he spent his career working with.

“I’m an exorbitantly and incredibly impatient person. I don’t want to wait six months for my employment review. I get my employment review every 20 seconds when the food walks out, and I love this,” says O’Connell. “I’m a student of this business, and I will always be a student of it.”

Cleveland Meets Paris

When I spoke to Chef O’Connell in December, La Ville Lumière had only been open for nine weeks. In that time, he and his team had accumulated an impressively die-hard collection of regulars.

“We’re full every night of the week and full with people that have been here four or five or six times since we’ve been open.”

The two-room dining area greets guests with patterned tiles, kitschy French decor, and a TV playing your favorite shows in black and white. O’Connell admits that he isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel here but instead create that atmosphere you’d expect from a traditional brasserie.

The beauty is that if you come in on a Tuesday afternoon, you’ll likely run into the gentler crowds having a late lunch with a humble glass of red wine. That dinner crowd, though? A boisterous bunch of guests, from couples celebrating milestones to groups of friends laughing over Caesar salads, sides of fries, and, most importantly, cocktails.

“This is your corner restaurant,” says O’Connell. “You can come here for a special occasion or happy hour every day or with your significant other. I think there’s something we cover for everybody here. It’s not just a special occasions-only restaurant.”

Whether receiving incredibly thoughtful and enjoyable service from their waitstaff or chatting over a cocktail with the bartenders, you can feel the essence of community. Don’t be surprised to see a guest or two walk in just to catch up with their favorite server or shoot a wave to Chef in the back.

“What we’re trying to do is encapsulate three things: service, which isn’t pretentious, but friendly and knowledgable; food, which is approachable, and if you have questions they can be answered; and an ambiance in which you feel comfortable eating in.”

French Onion Soup, Fries, & French 75’s

When you think French cuisine, you wouldn’t be incorrect in picturing dim, candlelit tables with white cloth and bottles of wine that’ll run a hole through your wallet. With as much precision and technique required to make some of the cuisine’s most popular dishes, it’s no wonder French restaurants tend to lean into the fine-dining side of the restaurant scene. La Ville Lumière is nothing of the sort.

“I don’t want it to be formal, snobby, and precocious. That’s not the goal here,” says O’Connell. “It’s bistro brasserie food—steak and French fries, onion soup, pâté, cassoulet—stuff like that."

Need a recommendation?

As a soon-to-be regular at La Ville Lumière, what with how much I visit, I’ve perfected my most indulgent order. Here is what you have to try:

From the Boulangerie:

• Baguette au Jambon et Chèvre (the freshest, crisp baguette with a pillowy inside, paired perfectly with the salty ham and refreshing goat cheese)

Hors d’Oeuvres:

• Soupe à l’Oignon (the infamous French onion soup that, indeed, is huge– but you can never have too much soup in your life)

Entrées:

• Steak Frites (the essential dish)
• Duo de Canard (masterfully prepared duck breast, accompanied by a golden oyster mushroom risotto, leeks, and dry cherry glace de canard)

O’Connell’s dishes are so exceptional that one bite of the croque madame will transport you right onto the streets of Paris. La Ville Lumière is also open late, making it perfect for indulging in these delightful flavors whenever hunger strikes.

“I think the late-night dining aspect of what we do is incredible, and I think we’re reaping the benefits of that. You see a diverse crowd here, from location to age to ethnicity. At about 10 p.m., it calms down, and then from 10:30 p.m. to midnight, it picks up with every restaurant worker in Cleveland who doesn’t want to go out for a taco or pizza.”

A New Chapter

Some may say La Ville Lumière is still in its honeymoon phase, greeted with eager diners to try something new. O’Connell responds that he isn’t going anywhere.

“At the end of the day, my judge, jury, and executioners are the people that come in here and eat all the time. I listen, and they don’t always say nice things, but I take that to heart and try to fix it.”

Those familiar faces who keep coming in fuel Chef Kevin's desire to elevate his work. After years of working with talented chefs, owning and managing kitchens, and perfecting delicious menus for guests, La Ville Lumière is his créme de la créme.

“I feel like (La Ville Lumière) has now given me the opportunity to really showcase what I love and give other people opportunities to do that now too,” O’Connell says regarding his kitchen staff. “The average age in my kitchen is around 25. I’ve got five 16-year-olds working for me. This job is an opportunity to learn something.”

As O’Connell enlists young people to learn just as he did, he leans into the comfort of La Ville Lumèire, relishing the community's appreciation. He’s entirely grateful for everyone who’s dined at LVL, whether for a cocktail or a four-course meal.

“I found a home here. I like Cleveland very much,” says O’Connell. “Cleveland has really welcomed me, as someone who’s not from here, with open arms, and I can’t be thankful enough.”

 

 

 

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10427 Clifton Blvd, Cleveland

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